Budzbuddha
Well-Known Member
Time for a bowl 
or two.
or two.
Hey , Dummy Grow a Plant - Simple Soil Container Growing
- Thread starter Budzbuddha
- Start date
Sofa King Smoooth
Well-Known Member
Thank you for taking time to put this together. This is clear enough even a dummy like me can understand!
Budzbuddha
Well-Known Member
You can substitute the second soil ( recipe 420 ) with Happy Frog potting soil . Or even Light Warrior .
Dr. Earth pot o gold , Dr. Earth Motherland , Mother Earth Groundswell or any other that LISTS INDIVIDUAL INGREDIENTS in there makeup.
For Example :
Soil that may say - perlite , myco , kelp meal , etc. as individual elements …. NOT with some obscure label listing “ organic fertilizer “ added.
Which may be some General Pelletized fertilizer added like miracle grow.
Read the bag !!!!
That way you exactly what in it .
Budzbuddha
Well-Known Member
LST
It’s a few hours later and POOF ! ……. Candelabras !
It’s a few hours later and POOF ! ……. Candelabras !
Dboybudz
Well-Known Member
Love the whole thread going shopping for everything needed just one question when do you top dress with soil and dry amendment? Thanks and triple 4 good?Solo Cup Containers :
This will be a brief example of solo cup containers for germination. I will post more examples later on in thread as i move grows around. But a no nonsense way to get shit started
1. Solo cup - Any brand / Any Size . I dont use clear or tinted variations of solo cups. Some growers use them as a “ inner “ cup to the regular red solo. Whatever floats your boat
2. Soil : I reuse soil from my harvest containers. I dont get a lot left from them but for a few cups it works. Used soil will be somewhat milder to its original mix - perfect for germination. I do not add any nutes to it only myco. I pre dampen prior to planting seed.
Any light soil / mild potting mix will work also if you have already. Light warrior comes to mind.
3. Seed : As you can see , i merely presoak seeds in water - taproot pops and its off to the races. Some growers have their preferred method of germination- paper towel / rooters or direct to soil. I merely dig a small cavity and literally pour it in.
Strain shown ( “ O “ ) is a Deep Chunk cross i messed around with and like the smoke.
View attachment 5353131View attachment 5353132View attachment 5353133View attachment 5353134
As this thread gains some traction- i will post some “ layered “ approaches to solo cups - even some variations for those that like to run solo cup competitions.
Stay Tuned.
Budzbuddha
Well-Known Member
I have mixed both prior before ( but for heavy feeding strains ) . I tend to just stick to either dry fertilizer feeding or top dressing . Again the issue is not to overfeed. And mixing both can be sometimes be too much.
Dboybudz
Well-Known Member
Thanks yea im growing some autos from gorilla
Budzbuddha
Well-Known Member
Feel free to drop pics of how things end up.
This thread is open to all that follow along - so feel free to chime In.
big bud man 413
Well-Known Member
Are you finding bugs in the fox farm soil were your at? Here on the east coast a lot of people are haveing problems with fox farm soils.View attachment 5351606
Container gardening involves growing plants in pots or containers rather than directly in the ground. For simple soil container growing, choose a well-draining potting mix, place it in containers with drainage holes, and select appropriate containers based on plant size. Ensure proper watering and sunlight for your specific plants, and consider using fertilizer as needed. Container gardening is versatile and suitable for various plants, making it accessible for both beginners and experienced gardeners.
This thread is for those looking for a simple , easy , no-frills method to container grows. No Bottles - No stupid cartoon nutes or BROSCIENCE.
I run all of my “ soil “ grows using a layering method - nute dense medium at bottom / layered amendments and mild blend topsoil.
This method will work with Autoflowers or Photoperiods. The core of this is allowing base medium to feed plant without additional feed upfront.
Plant will acclimate to base medium and feed according to its own needs , not by the heavy hand of the grower.
As the plant moves through its growth stages - simple “ recharging “ to base medium can be done by either top dressing ( fresh soil ) or dry fertilizer.
Fertilizer choices are many , however even simple general purpose 4-4-4 or 5-5-5 dry fertilizer will work. I will be using Roots Organic 2-part Grow and Bloom.
Base Medium -
Fox Farms Ocean Forest
Recipe 420 potting mix
Amendment Layer :
Dynomyco or similar ( Mykos extreme / Myco Supreme / etc. ) an
Coarse perlite / pumice or rice hulls
Containers :
Plastic / Bucket or Fabric Bags
Water :
Tap
This is a foolproof way to run a simple “ water only “ soil grow - No RO / Moose Sweat or Distilled. Tap water will work under most circumstances and does not require the “ 24 hour off gassing “ as those YouTube idiots suggest. Believe it or not , chlorine is a plant needed element. Typical city water sources are good enough to water your lawn , hydrate your dog and cook with. Calcium / Magnesium is present in this water and will eliminate the need to buy a bottle of Calmag . Dry fertilizer choice will also be a source of calcium and magnesium.
PH :
There will be little concern with ph (from most municipalities ) as soil will be prebuffered to control. As time moves on , recharging medium with fresh soil top dressing will also recharge buffering. By keeping this simple , you avoid running water stripped of these elements and looking to replace by means of Calmag bottles. Remember , it’s a plant , it doesn’t need “ special “ water.
NOTE : I have found that I can extend the longevity of the base soil’s PH by simply adjusting water to 6.5 . California water sources for me can run 7.6 or slightly higher out of tap. However , I can run it as-is and only adjust if water reads higher. I fill my water container and measure .
This will cover the most basic mix I use in most of my grows. I do experiment with other “ modded “ blends and will post some of those as time moves on.
AUTOFLOWERS :
‘This will work exceptionally well for autoflowers as they do not require complicated feeds and are hardwired to harvest in a set amount of time. This method will carry a plant for weeks upfront ( strain dependent ). No sweetners or molasses will be used.
PHOTOPERIODS :
This method will also work for longer week grows. Recharging either with fresh soil - dry fertilizer or aerated soil tea bag ( more on that later ).
‘Plant will be recharged at intervals to keep medium nute dense , replacing only what the plant used . Technically, the plant will feed off of what it is accustomed to already - wasting money on multi bottle bullshit. There is absolutely zero reason to buy overpriced “ nutes “ made for cannabis …. You can feed it like a tomato plant .
I have run plants on Jobe spikes.
So feel free to share experiments , comments or ideas.
All is welcome.
Let’s Go
Budzbuddha
Well-Known Member
Yeah - it can be a regional thing from what i here ( different sources for amendments listed ) - although i have run into some “ bug bags “.
Mostly Fungus gnats. Fox Farm is ripe with organic material and is a big fat calling card to various pests. I dont overthink it as most of the time pests hitchhike during transport ( pallets) and storage ( sometimes outside ) depending where these loads come and go too.
This is no different to any brand.
However , there is a fix - at least to help combat them - Neem meal. I don’t like “ spraying my plants “ with anything if possible . But Neem meal ( DTE brand ) is direct to soil. It makes more sense to target the topsoil instead of hosing the plant since they lay their nadty eggs and shit in that topsoil. Adult flyers obviously need the yellow sticky to help control but in the topsoil you can add 2 tablespoons of neem meal ( mix it thoroughly ) - It makes more sense to me to again target the soil not the plant.
But this just my opinion. I also give them a combo beatdown with a topsoil spray of Spinosad with that neem meal treatment for heavier issues.
NOTE : Remember Neem “ Oil “ sprayed all over plant stinks it up and can screw up your flowers with a bad taste. So why do it ?
Bottom line - IPM ( pest management ) will vary with your grows and whatever way you choose or treatment you like will work.
Decaying organic material in good soils always come with good and bad.
big bud man 413
Well-Known Member
Ya man I usually use bc micro lift for the fungus cunts.
big bud man 413
Well-Known Member
Bmc lol!
Budzbuddha
Well-Known Member
Good option also.
Yeah garden pests can be a PIA but that is why they call them “ garden pests “ …. No matter the plant - tomatoes / citrus or cannabis- bugs happen.
big bud man 413
Well-Known Member
Yes your right about that.
Budzbuddha
Well-Known Member
Another Example.
You will see soil mites in FFOF …. not necessarily a bad thing - some growers see them and shit their pants … when they ( the soil mites ) actually have a job to do ….. organic decomposition.
The soil is a living , thriving microcosm of life - everything has a job both good and bad. You need some insect activity to happen. Hell i used to cook soil recipes ( moonshine mix and other blends ) and even added insect frass to my mixes. Fungus gnats are negligible if you handle them quickly.
Spider mites are much different- those fuckers aka The Borg are relentless and much more of an issue to the plant directly instead of the soil. So much more extreme things are necessary. I usually concoct a heavy duty ISO spray to torch them bitches. But it has been quite sometime since i had to deal with them - thank god
I used to also “ screen “ my bags ( different brand ) just see what debris ended up in it. Here’s lookin at you - Kelloggs soil LOL.
Bugs were the furthest thing …. I found rocks , paper , paperclip / wire , rubber chips , etc.
That pissed me off more than a few pests
You will see soil mites in FFOF …. not necessarily a bad thing - some growers see them and shit their pants … when they ( the soil mites ) actually have a job to do ….. organic decomposition.
The soil is a living , thriving microcosm of life - everything has a job both good and bad. You need some insect activity to happen. Hell i used to cook soil recipes ( moonshine mix and other blends ) and even added insect frass to my mixes. Fungus gnats are negligible if you handle them quickly.
Spider mites are much different- those fuckers aka The Borg are relentless and much more of an issue to the plant directly instead of the soil. So much more extreme things are necessary. I usually concoct a heavy duty ISO spray to torch them bitches. But it has been quite sometime since i had to deal with them - thank god
I used to also “ screen “ my bags ( different brand ) just see what debris ended up in it. Here’s lookin at you - Kelloggs soil
LOL.Bugs were the furthest thing …. I found rocks , paper , paperclip / wire , rubber chips , etc.
That pissed me off more than a few pests
Budzbuddha
Well-Known Member
Another side tip
When I top my plants , I use a flexible coated garden wire ( 99¢ store ) to easily shape the top of plant .
This plant is under “ construction “ LST training and will show her final shape later once she pops back into shape.
Not sure if I will continue to top her , we will see.
When I top my plants , I use a flexible coated garden wire ( 99¢ store ) to easily shape the top of plant .
This plant is under “ construction “
LST training and will show her final shape later once she pops back into shape.Not sure if I will continue to top her , we will see.
Budzbuddha
Well-Known Member
Latest LST - DONE
420 Garden
Well-Known Member
There will be some light penetration going on now.