60 ppm tap with coco

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truentgoon

Well-Known Member
My tap water is about 60 ppm. I heard the water has to be 250 ppm before putting in nutes.

To get 250 ppm before adding nutes do I have to add calmag until I reach 250?

When I used quarter strength calmag and quarter strength nutes my water came out 300 ppm.

To get 250 ppm with just calmag I would have to probably use the full dose of calmag plus which is 3-5ml.

Is that ok? Might even need more, I have to test it with a gallon of water.

First off, is this true that the water has to be 250/300 with only calmag added, no nutes?

Then add the nutes after you reach that?

What if after adding a full 5ml dose of calmag to a gallon of my 60 ppm tap water the ppm still isn't 250/300?

Do I keep adding more calmag until I get there?
 
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rollyouron

Well-Known Member
truentgoon said:
My tap water is about 60 ppm. I heard the water has to be 250 ppm before putting in nutes.

To get 250 ppm before adding nutes do I have to add calmag until I reach 250?

When I used quarter strength calmag and quarter strength nutes my water came out 300 ppm.

To get 250 ppm with just calmag I would have to probably use the full dose of calmag plus which is 3-5ml.

Is that ok? Might even need more, I have to test it with a gallon of water.

First off, is this true that the water has to be 250/300 with only calmag added, no nutes?

Then add the nutes after you reach that?

What if after adding a full 5ml dose of calmag to a gallon of my 60 ppm tap water the ppm still isn't 250/300?

Do I keep adding more calmag until I get there?
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My PPM is 30. I grow in Promix. I don't add any Cal Mag I use Dyna Foliage Pro. About 2 weeks into flowering I add Dyna Pro Mag. What I'm trying to say if you don't need it don't add it. Read your plants.
 
T

truentgoon

Well-Known Member
rollyouron said:
My PPM is 30. I grow in Promix. I don't add any Cal Mag I use Dyna Foliage Pro. About 2 weeks into flowering I add Dyna Pro Mag. What I'm trying to say if you don't need it don't add it. Read your plants.
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What is your ppm when feeding them?

Your saying ppm doesn't matter? I thought calmag with coco was important.
 
lokie

lokie

Well-Known Member
use the tap water as is unless it's ridiculously high. My tap water comes out at 80 ppm and it works fine with no additives.

when I mix nutes I discount for the tap ppm. so if I want 1000 ppm my meter will read 1080 ppm and all is good.
 
T

truentgoon

Well-Known Member
lokie said:
use the tap water as is unless it's ridiculously high. My tap water comes out at 80 ppm and it works fine with no additives.

when I mix nutes I discount for the tap ppm. so if I want 1000 ppm my meter will read 1080 ppm and all is good.
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You must use full strength nutes to get to 1000 ppm if your tap is 80.

My tap is 60 ppm and after quarter strength nutes and calmag it was 300. I guess that's correct for young plants?

Then half strength would bring it to 600 for later veg than eventually full strength around 1000 for bloom?

Do I have to use full strength nutes?
 
GBAUTO

GBAUTO

Well-Known Member
Your water is fine-hell, compared to some of the folks out west in the desert say theirs is over 500ppm out of the tap....chunky.
As Lokie said, just add the base ppm of the water to the desired concentration. I use GH Flora in my RDWC system and tend to follow the base settings for concentrations and then adjust to keep the plants happy.
 
T

truentgoon

Well-Known Member
GBAUTO said:
Your water is fine-hell, compared to some of the folks out west in the desert say theirs is over 500ppm out of the tap....chunky.
As Lokie said, just add the base ppm of the water to the desired concentration. I use GH Flora in my RDWC system and tend to follow the base settings for concentrations and then adjust to keep the plants happy.
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My water may have chloromine in it I'm not sure I need to call my water department.

Should I get declorinator? How much of that stuff do you use per gallon? A drop?
 
T

truentgoon

Well-Known Member
rollyouron said:
No your fine. Just add your nutes.
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Ok I guess I'll just leave the water in a bucket for 24 hours. Just hope there's no Chloromine in it.

rollyouron said:
What nutes are using?
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Fox farm trio with calmag plus. What do you use?

Quarter strength bloom and grow with the calmag barely got it to 300 and I think I added a tiny bit more than quarter.

Half strength would bring it to 500-600 so I'm guessing that's normal for later veg.

What do you guys think about mycorrhizae? I'm thinking about getting some for transplanting.

Looking at the bioag VAM endo 100g or the great white 1 oz. The VAM looks like a better deal.

Getting more VAM for the same price 11 bucks.
 
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truentgoon

Well-Known Member
rollyouron said:
how old are your plantss?
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Fox farm bottles say organic so maybe that's why it's not raising ppm so much.

The plant was 2 weeks old when I was giving it an 1/8 than the third week I gave it a quarter, than 2 weeks after I was gunna do half.

I had to get rid of the plant do to mold. Had the temps drop during dark period with no fan on so it caused a moldy leave.

Running lights 24/7 for veg during winter now when I get my seeds.
 
ANC

ANC

Well-Known Member
truentgoon said:
Should I get declorinator
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Most dechlorinators also bind metals....

P.S always confirm a problem with a nutrient before doing anything to it.
Plants that are slightly underfed will outproduce and have more vigor than overfed plants.

The real problems are when your plants are underfed because you messed up the roots with a hot medium (overfeeding).

Overfeeding is the number one problem, if your pots drain freely, you can't overwater them, as long as you repeat waterings before water inside the medium goes stale. You can gradually reduce or increase waterings (period) and the plant will adjust to it. Same with food. but it is a gradual thing. Just handing the plant a bag of chocolates is not solving the problems.
 
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ANC

ANC

Well-Known Member
I'm not sure what binds to what and of the bioavailability afterwards.
It just makes me nervous. It is already hard keeping things like iron available for more than the shortest little periods.

There is probably more than enough food in the soil to feed the plant, but that does not mean the plant has access to it.
This is where mycos and trichoderma come in. One breaks down the nutrients in the soil, the other helps the plant to pick it up at a lower energy cost than if the plant did it by itself.


You need only 4 things to grow fairly decent weed in soil, the soil, and tea made with black strap molasses, worm castings and soil microbes like great white or similar.
 
T

truentgoon

Well-Known Member
ANC said:
I'm not sure what binds to what and of the bioavailability afterwards.
It just makes me nervous. It is already hard keeping things like iron available for more than the shortest little periods.

There is probably more than enough food in the soil to feed the plant, but that does not mean the plant has access to it.
This is where mycos and trichoderma come in. One breaks down the nutrients in the soil, the other helps the plant to pick it up at a lower energy cost than if the plant did it by itself.


You need only 4 things to grow fairly decent weed in soil, the soil, and tea made with black strap molasses, worm castings and soil microbes like great white or similar.
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On the bottle it says it detoxifies the metals. I'm guessing that's a bad thing since you want the iron in it especially if your water is soft like mine.

I'm doing coco so there might not be too much food in there like the soil has lol.

I've been looking into blackstrap molasses. Unfortunately I don't have a tea maker or compost to break down the molasses for the mycorrhizae to take in.

That's why I was looking into nectar for the gods Aphrodites extraction but the owner said your pissing those away if you don't have something else I need to go back to the video.
 
T

truentgoon

Well-Known Member
Ok he said that using the molasses in a tea is a bigger meal than the aphrodites extraction.

I need to look into how to make tea. Do you need any items?
 
MickFoster

MickFoster

Well-Known Member
truentgoon said:
My tap water is about 60 ppm. I heard the water has to be 250 ppm before putting in nutes.

To get 250 ppm before adding nutes do I have to add calmag until I reach 250?

When I used quarter strength calmag and quarter strength nutes my water came out 300 ppm.

To get 250 ppm with just calmag I would have to probably use the full dose of calmag plus which is 3-5ml.

Is that ok? Might even need more, I have to test it with a gallon of water.

First off, is this true that the water has to be 250/300 with only calmag added, no nutes?

Then add the nutes after you reach that?

What if after adding a full 5ml dose of calmag to a gallon of my 60 ppm tap water the ppm still isn't 250/300?

Do I keep adding more calmag until I get there?
Click to expand...
I'm not sure where you heard this. You don't adjust your water to a higher ppm before you add your nutes. Add your nutes and adjust your pH to around 6.0. If you develop a calcium or magnesium deficiency, then add some calmag. Simple. Also, chloramine will not harm your plants and it doesn't evaporate when left to sit out like chlorine.
 
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